I just completed the second half of my church walk. This time I headed north from the Duomo to San Marco (Dominican), and then on to Santissima Annunciata (Servite). As I turn toward Santa Croce (Franciscan) I noticed San Ambrosia way down the street, so I took a detour there. Next, back toward city center to La Badia and Orsanmichele. I was all over the map! Before ending this church walk at Santa Trinita, I crossed the Arno to Santa Felicita, then crossed back to view Santi Apostoli, one of the oldest and pretties churches in Florence. It’s fair to say that my final destination was to Chiaro Scuro, where they serve the largest cappuccino and provide a comfy place to write.
This morning I was off on my early morning church walk by 7:30. My plan was to stop and photograph the façade of every church and then be on my way. Usually I don’t have a planned itinerary when I take this walk; my body seems to turn in one direction, I put one foot in front of the other, and I’m on my way. Since all the churches of Florence fan out from Santa Marie del Fiori (and conveniently my apartment is right on the square), it was appropriate that my first photo was of the Duomo. My route then led to the Medici church of San Lorenzo, Santa Maria Novella (Dominican), church 0f Ognissanti (Umilati), Santa Maria del Carmine (Carmilite), and Santo Spirito (Augustinian).
Usually I complete my church walk in a single morning, but today I stopped to write and enjoy a cappuccino at Piazza Santo Spirito. As I entered the café I noticed antiques and craft vendors setting up booths to sell their wares. By the time I left, the early dawn atmosphere for a church walk had passed, and the busy Florentine day had begun. I wander about the stalls, deciding to finish my church walk at dawn tomorrow.
Even though I am living in this city for only two weeks, right now it is my home. So I decided to take an early morning walk to survey the major churches that have been a large part of the city’s history and that draw me here. These churches as we know them today were built, often on preexisting foundations, toward the end of the thirteen century to accommodate a rising city population. Although subsidized by city government, many represented a particular religious order.
I started this solitary walk at Santa Maria dei Fiori, stopping along the way to take pictures of each façade, and to enjoy a couple of cappucchini. Last church, Santa Croce.
Santa Marie dei Fiori: Cathedral church of Florence
Santissima Annunziata: Servites
San Marco: Domenican
Santa Maria Novella: Domenican
Santa Maria del Carmine: Carmelite
Santo Spirito: Augustinian
Santa Trinita: Vallumbrosan
Badia Fiorentina: Fraternity of Jerusalem
Santa Croce: Franciscan
I visited Santa Maria Novella yesterday afternoon. Although I’ve never thought of it as my favorite, I always seem to spend time there soon after I arrive in Florence. This time I took a notebook tour, computer notebook that is. A very leisurely, solitary way to do it. In fact, I’m considering doing so at other churches I tour.
This Dominican church has a rich history in Florence, beginning in the mid-thirteen century when monastic orders were building churches all over Europe as a base to carry out their mission (with public assistance). Florence was no exception.
The Dominican mission is to preach, teach, and confess. Interesting to note that the Dominican Fra Girolama Savonarola (1452-96), who became over zealous in the order’s mission until he was burned at the stake in Piazza della Signoria, was not mentioned in the tour. Maybe he’ll appear when I tour the Convent of San Marco where he lived, but I’m thinking the text on these tours is committed to giving a positive spin.
Inside the church
In the cloisters
How do we keep silence, solitude and simplicity in this crazy world. I hate to frame it that way—crazy—but that’s the way it feels, even to someone like me, privileged, free of tragedies and full of good health, family, friends and church.
It behooves those of us ‘lucky’ ones to stand by and walk with those experiencing difficulties. It has to do with balance. When things are tough we become stuck at the bottom of the seesaw; we need others to get us moving so we can be in balance, more up and down with ease, and at times soar to the top.
I mention church because the UCC church I attend offers balance and support to everyone who walks through the door. Sometime we need to be lifted up, sometimes we lift up. Regardless, wherever you are on life’s journey, you are welcome here. A church community filled with love offers something different from, or shall I say beyond, what family, friends, and work colleagues can offer. It humbles us as we learn once again that we can’t take all the credit or all the blame for what goes on in our lives. We learn to be on the giving and receiving end of love. We learn to seesaw.
One of my favorite day trips from Florence is to Fiesole. Hop on Bus #7 at Piazza San Marco and twenty-five minutes later there you are at the top of the hill overlooking Firenze. The Duomo looms large.
There is much to see in Fiesole but I usually pass by the Roman forum, the local museums and cathedral, and climb the hill to the Chiesa di San Francesco. I can never resist talking pictures, and of course, blogging about it again.
On this early spring day, all was silent. I was in solitude, and yet the few visitors who came along offered a comforting sense of community to this miniature monastic complex. After all, those of us who had ventured to this out-of-the-way place must be kindred spirits in some way!
Every time I climb the stairs to gaze into the fourteenth century monks cells, I picture myself living in one of them. My AR (angel room) at home is not much bigger, but the comparison stops there. These cells are sparse—board for a bed, a desk and chair, Bible and cross. I won’t even begin to describe the AR! I will say, however, that these cells encourage me to simplify, to get rid of things, mainly books that are from another stage of life, books that I will never read again.
A month ago, on the morning of my last day in Florence, I took an early morning walk (7 miles) to the city’s principal churches. The day was chilly and windy but not overbearing. Signs of spring were beginning to appear. Maybe you can see some of them in the following slideshow.
• Santa Maria del Fiore
• San Lorenzo
• Santa Maria Novella
• Basilica del Carmine
• Santo Spirito
• Santa Felicita
• Santa Croce
• Santissima Annunziata
• San Marco
• Santa Maria del Fiore
This Thursday I am flying to Rome and taking the train back to Florence. Then on the 18th I’ll meet my son, daughter-in-law and two grandchildren back in Rome: we’ll spend two nights there, four in Florence, and one more in Rome before flying home together.
My first week in Florence will be one of solitude. Before I meet the family for this whirl of a vacation together, I will circumnavigate the city and again take pictures of the churches. I trust that signs of spring will be more evident.
Today, a perfect sunny day, my last full day living in Florence, for now, that is. I got up early to get the most of it. By 6:25 I was walking along the Arno, crossing the Ponte Vecchio, and climbing up to the Piazzale Michelangelo. The street cleaners were out, vendors were setting up, but for the most part I had the place to myself.
Next stop, San Marco, once again to see the Fra Angelico frescoes in the monks’ cells. An hour there, and then across the street to catch Bus #7 for Fiesole. There I climbed to the Church of San Francesco at the top of the hill, and then wandered the streets of Fiesole, peeking through the fences to glimpse the magnificent homes and their views of the Duomo in the valley below. Privacy is well protected but I did come across a sign indicating the house that Frank Lloyd Wright rented in 1919.
Alas, my final lunch of bruschetta on the square before taking the bus back to Florence. Walking back to the apartment I noted that although the lines to climb the Duomo and the Campanile were looong, there was no cue to get in the cathedral. So in I went for a quick good-bye.
These two weeks have provided a rewarding experiment in living in the moment. Yesterday I completed Draft # 6 of my memoir about my mom. It's finally ready to be fine-tuned. I'm 'very grateful'.
I wrote this yesterday and am posting in before I head for the airport for a 9:55 flight to Frankfurt and then on to Boston.
I’m glad I rented a quiet apartment, one with windows facing an indoor courtyard and not the street. Yesterday evening was anything but quiet but I didn’t hear a thing out of the ordinary. It was “White Night”, “La Notte Bianca”, a celebration in Florence to usher in May 1, International Workers Day, and a national Italian holiday.
I did my usual 9 PM stroll around the Santa Marie dei Fiore, through Piazza della Signoria, along the Arno, and then ‘home’. The littered streets that I traversed this morning to get an early spot in line to climb the Duomo, indicated an active, noisy night on the streets. Fortunately, by the time I climbed down, the street cleaners had done their usual magic.
The slideshow is my version of before and after; La Notte Bianca and my morning climb up Brunelleschi’s dome.
Here are a few glimpses into my current experiment in living in Florence. Random thoughts. Nothing too startling, just life as it happens.
The best news is that my niece has been in town; it’s been great fun showing her around and sharing a few meals with her. A lovely break from solitude and living here alone. No question, a few plans with family and friends are all part of the balance.
In the late afternoon yesterday we happened up the monks singing Mass at San Miniato. Beautiful. Soon after that we were almost locked in at the cemetery behind the church. Um, can’t have enough reminders—watch the time.
A couple of hours later, as we were enjoying dinner at Piazza Santo Spirito, a woman at the table next to us let out a scream. With that two men at a nearby table jumped over the plexiglass barrier, ran around the corner and out of sight. Five minutes later they returned the woman’s pocketbook, took their seats, and enjoyed a sip of wine. Evidently a young man had grabbed the bag but dropped it on the road when he realized he was being chased. Um, can’t have enough reminders—watch your bag.
I’ve been writing at the nearby library every morning. Except for the occasional scraping of chairs on the stone floor, it is incredibly quiet in there. People are writing and studying, but step out to answer their phone.
Today I bought a skein of ‘Alpaca Baby’ wool at a yarn store that I found on line a year ago. When traveling I need something small and easy to knit—a cowl fits my specifications. If you’re a knitter, check the site out for fun. www.campolmifilati.it
Contact me: email@example.com
4/30/15 Finishing up VG.