| A Cottage by the Sea |
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Here's another slide show attempt. I'm hoping for music this time. These are amazing churches. Please go on line for more info. Oops. No luck getting the slide show on. I'll try again. Here are a few pics, all the same. Best I can do at the moment.    
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 Garibaldi Monument Early trip to St. Peter’s, this time to climb to the portico for a full panorama of Rome. Alas, my plan was curtailed by yet another Papal visit to the Square. This time I passed up the opportunity to participate, and instead took Bus 870 to the Piazza Garibaldi in the Gianicolo Hills (also with a panoramic view of the city. From there I wandered into a vast park, where I joined hikers, bikers and runners. After an hour of walking around, however, I realized that I had no idea where I was or how to get out. But my Italian came to the rescue. A young family indicated the nearest exit on the Tiber side of the park, and soon a half hour later I was back on Bus 780. Ah but oh so far from where I had gotten off--somehow I had ventured from the Gianicolo Botanical Gardens to the Villa Doria Pamphilj Park, which is barely on my City of Rome map. I loved the adventure. And, my hunger was satisfied by spaghetti alla carbonara and a glass of wine at the Campo dei Fiori.     Here's my first attempt ever to create a slide show. I set off early to beat the crowds. Four hours later, as I was leaving the Forum and Palatine, the crowds were gathering, although the space of both sites is enormous.  St. Peter's Square from the church. I happily broke my solitary pattern today and met a friend of friends for lunch. A delightful time. I was given a Roman point of view of things and even some news of the world. This new friend was also was amazed that I got a seat just three rows from the front as the Pope rode by. I guess I was too naïve to know my place. This morning I got to St. Peter’s by 8:30, beating the crowds through security and into the church. On previous visits I remember viewing Michelangelo’s Pieta from up close, but his time I was too far away to even consider taking a picture. Today, what amazed me most was the variety of marble throughout, from floor to ceiling. .     My local bus stop--Largo di Torre Argentina This morning I had a cappucchino at my local ‘bar’ and then sat in a nearby park and wrote in my journal. “No coffee to go?” you ask. No, there isn’t such a thing. In Italy you order your coffee and stand at the bar and guzzle it down; sit at a table, pay more. There are NO disposable coffee cups in Italy. NO coffee to go. NO coffee cup litter. It’s a cultural thing; and part of the economy. I finally bought a bus/metro pass for the week and immediately hopped on Bus 85, which took me more or less on the route of my walks of the past two days (my goodness, did I walk!!) I got off at S. Giovanni in Laterano and immediately got on Bus 81, which took a somewhat similar route back to my neighborhood. One of the easy things about a bus pass is that you validate it on your first ride, and then just keep it handy in case a bus monitor gets on to check. If you don’t know the procedure, you might think that everyone is bucking the system, but most people have some kind of pass. The pass is valid for the Metro, as well, but you have to put it through the machine each time. By the way, if you look at a map you’ll notice that the Metro circles Rome, but doesn’t go into the Centro, lest it bump into some Roman ruin.    Pope in his Popemobile. Another day of surprises, this time at St. Peter’s. Maybe you’ll see me on the news, three rows from the front where the Mass of Pentecost was celebrated. This morning I decided I’d get an early spot in line for entry to St. Peter’s. Well, I didn’t get inside the church, but I did get a close view of the Pope as he rode by on his Popemobile. Unbelievable, all the little things made it an extraordinary experience. I have no idea what prompted me to go to St. P’s this morning. It has been my pattern to get up, head out for coffee and croissant, and then see what direction my legs turn. Today they went to St. P’s. It wasn’t until I arrive there that I realized that thousands were gathering for a special Mass in the square. I decided to stay, which meant finding my way into the seating area. Easy. I worked my way along a side barrier where police were doing a cursory job of checking people in. There was no cue, but the Italian way is to keep moving, and so I joined in. All was very orderly and efficient, and in five minutes I was through security and had found a seat about twenty-five rows back, which suited me fine. But along came a woman who wanted my seat next to her friend, so she led me to a seat three rows from the front, and there I stayed for the next two and a half hours. It was all very surreal. (Some people were over one hundred rows behind, and many standing behind them) “Two and a half hours,” you say. “How could you sit so long? You’re not even Catholic.” Well, let me tell you, it was the best show in town, and thanks to my “good enough” Italian, I understood most of what was going on.. The entire event was perfectly orchestrated—singing and music, a few speeches, the Mass, and then the entry, blessing and talk (speech?) by Popo Benedict XVI (small man, white hair, moved about by himself without help) . The crowd was extremely well organized and in control (when they asked silent prayer, it was silent.), and were thoroughly enjoying themselves and happy to be Catholics cheering for the Pope.      San Clemente Another ten miles of walking, I do believe. I set out this morning thinking I would keep it simple and get a bus pass, but I kept on walking, and now, here I am back at the apartment seven hours later. In case you care, my new sneakers are sooo comfortable, my iPhone fits in my jacket pocket, and my little change purse has a home in my pant leg pocket. Backpack holds guidebook, Nook, notebook and a few etceteras. I’m an easy traveler. Today’s main destination was San Clemente, one of the oldest churches in Rome. The current 12th century church was built over the original 4th century church, which was build over the Temple of Mithras, an all-male fertility cult from Persia and rival to Christianity in the 1st century. (No photography allowed inside.) Another highlight of the day was the cloister of San Giovanni in Laterano, which I remember visiting when I came to Rome in 1957. I’ve been attracted to cloisters every since – definitely my favorite part of a church. The surprise of the day, however, was at Santa Maria Maggiore. Along with San Giovanni in Laterano (and St. Peter’s), Santa Maria Maggiore is one of those enormous churches that have been decorated and redecorated over the years, offering more of a history lesson that anything spiritual, and displaying more about church fathers than about God. But today I came upon the rehearsal of an upcoming concert, with a full orchestra, a small singing group, and a tenor soloist. I wasn’t familiar with the music, and I knew nothing about the musicians; there were NO billboards advertising the event, and I couldn’t find anything on line. (If anyone has better luck, please leave me a message.) Anyway I enjoyed a free concert and a little rest before walking ‘home’.    From Aventine Hill toward Victor Emmanuel Monument When I left my comfy apartment this morning I wondered if I would ever have time to blog. But after a four plus hour of walking around the Aventine Hill, I am happy to be back here with my feet up looking out over the Roman roof tops from four floors up. Organizing my pictures and thoughts is particularly relaxing. This morning’s venture took me to the Protestant Cemetery, where John Keats is buried, and to several churches on the Aventine Hill. My favorite is Santa Sabina, founded in CE 422. Although of course it has been restored, it has kept much of is original design and atmosphere. Let’s just say that it never went through a “Baroque remodeling” phase, although we always must remember that any church in Rome (or anywhere for that matter) is a work in progress. Another reminder: when visiting these churches, don’t forget to look down. Oh those magnificent mosaic floors. Um, wonder if I want to return to the quilt with the theme of Italian church floors that I started a couple of years ago? As far as silence, solitude and simplicity goes, I’m finding it in my own way. Take traffic, for example. The roads are far from simple—narrow, one-way, with cars, trucks, busses, and all kinds of mopeds and motorcycles either moving or parked. On the other hand for silence, I haven’t heard more than a half dozen car horns. There must be a ban on them. Well, off I go, maybe to Trastevere (where ‘Eat, Pray, Love’ was filmed) and perhaps to St. Peter’s Square. You’ll know when I post picture tomorrow. Here are a few from today and yesterday. Ciao.        If you’ve ever taken a trip (of course you have), you know how busy the last day of packing and preparation is. It’s like that for me today. A million things to do, one being to keep to one small suitcase and one medium size backpack. Once done and I’m on my way, traveling becomes simple; there is little to unpack and repack and few wardrobe choices to make each day. I’m taking the same number of shirts as I am pairs of shoes—four. It’s all about comfort since I’ll be walking, walking, walking. I’d show you a picture of them (Why would I ever think you’d want to see them?) but my sneakers, sturdy walking flats, and sandals are already packed. I’ll be wearing my Keen walking sandals, which have been to Italy and Scotland several times. How’s that for simple savings?
I’m getting to be a sophisticated techie with my Mac Book Air and Nook. Printed matter is down to two guide books and a few maps. If I were really current I’d put all kinds of apps on my iPhone to guide me around Rome and Florence. But I think I’ll just use a map and my eyes and listen to the sounds of the city.  A week from today I will be wandering through the Roman Forum, climbing the steps of the Coliseum, standing in St. Peter’s Square, and most definitely enjoying a Cappuccino at a café in front of the Pantheon. Yes, I’m going to Italy: two weeks in Rome, two nights in Assisi, one in Cortona and the rest of the time in Florence. I’ll be gone a month.
Those of you who have been following my blog for a while, and those of you who know me personally, are aware that I like to be by myself for long periods of time and I love to travel by myself. Last September I went to Scotland, and of course I’ve been going to the cottage by the sea for the past three winters. Please, I am not advocating this amount and kind of solitude for everyone. I’m just sharing what I do to follow my bliss, with the hope that you will find your own ways to follow yours. Traveling alone works for me. I budget my money carefully, my husband honors my need (and likes solitude, too), and I’m very comfortable traveling. |
