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Solo visit to the Museum of Russian Icons

2/1/2019

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​Today I took a solitary trip to the Museum of Russian Icons, in Clinton, eighteen miles and thirty-five minutes from my house. I had planned to take pictures, but upon arriving I discovered I had left my phone at home.  What good news that turned out to be; no distractions. I was free to look. And since I was alone, it was just me and the icons.
     More good news: I had the entire second floor of the museum to myself for the entire visit.
    I’ve thought about returning just to take pictures, but why do that? I've saved a few from previous visits. 

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Firenze Light Festival

12/28/2018

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​It is three days after Christmas, and in some ways I feel the holiday is over. Since we spent the holidays our daughter’s, we did nothing to decorate our house; consequently we have no decorations to put away.
    If I were still in Florence, however, I would know that Christmas continues until Epiphany on January 6th. I would know because every evening I would walk along the Arno and watch “Firenze Light Festival: F-Light Your Mind.” I would continue to be in awe of the lights, colors and patterns flashed on the Ponte Vecchio. I would know, and I would be a peace as a solitary traveler. 

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More Signs of a Solitary Traveler

12/8/2018

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​     Last month I posted “Signs of a Solitary Travel” from my trip to Rome, Assisi, and Cortona in April. Little did I know that so soon I’d be offering a sequel. But here I am again, this time in Florence for two weeks in December, finding new signs to share.
      Signs are everywhere, and as a solitary traveler I’m particularly alert to what I see. Without a human travel companion, I become my virtual companion. I laugh with myself, and even express compassion as I breathe in the humor or poignancy of a sign. 


1. Locks of love
    The sign on the fence of the statue of Cellini on the Ponte Vecchio tells us that we will be fined 50 Euro if we attach a lock to the fence. And yet, we continue to do so. Over the years I have seen the fence in all states of fullness and emptiness. Lovers aren’t going to stop offering up these acts of love. Why should they when the world needs to lock love in. 


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Up date: They started early in the morning to get rid of the locks of love. 
A few hours later.
At 2 o'clock
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​The next morning I witnessed new locks starting the cycle of love all over again.
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​2. Offerings for the Sick and the Poor
     Drop your offering in the slit in the wall of the La Misericordia di Firenze on the Piazza del Duomo. This lay confraternity, with its commitment to transport the sick and bury the dead, dates back to the 13th century. I wonder if people still drop a coin in from time to time? Nowadays, individuals beg in person on the street, but the ambulance service remains active. 
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3. The Flood of 1966
Throughout the city there are signs indicating the point where the Arno reached during the last flood. Sometimes I can’t believe how high the waters rose nor how miraculously people rallied to clean up the mud and debris and restore the works of art. 


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Santa Croce sits lower than the river bed of the Arno; it suffered the most damage.
The extraordinary restoration of Cimabue's damaged Crucifix.
Flood levels at the Pazzi Chapel at Santa Croce. The highest is from 1966. The lowest, 1844. 
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4. Refugees (and dogs) Welcome
     Of course I had to enter and have a cappuccino and do a little writing. I hardly consider myself a refugee, but I knew I’d be welcomed. 
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5. Opening time at the Uffizi?
     Sometimes it’s the translation that attracts my attention! Officially the Uffizi is scheduled to open at 8:30, Tuesday through Sunday. But this Tuesday it could be open 11:15. Or maybe not.
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​6. Silence.
      There’s nothing remarkable about a T shirt with “Silence” written across the front. Except that the price for this shirt was 100 euro ($120). 
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​7. Becoming
    When I saw Michele’s becoming smile, I smiled right back. Becoming is alive and well in Italy as I’m sure it is in many other countries throughout the world. Michele’s message speaks the universal language of love, inclusivity and peace that we strive for.

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​8. Tactile signs
   Adjacent to Fra Angelico’s Annunciation in the Convent of San Marco is a three dimensional model of the fresco. A description in braille is also offered. 
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The Uffizi provides a similar aid in front of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus.


9. David is not here.
   You can find Michelangelo’s David at the Galleria dell’Accademia at Via Ricasoli, 60. Evidently enough people look for him at the Academia di Belle Arti e Liceo Artistico down the street at # 66 to warrant this sign. 

​10. Some signs need no explanation.

11. One step at a time
     Sometimes I wonder why I’m here and how I got here. 
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12. Always a hopeful sign.
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Signs of a Solitary Traveler

11/24/2018

2 Comments

 
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     ‘Don’t miss that bus stop! Don’t forget to punch your train ticket! Don’t be late for your reservation to climb the Duomo! Follow the signs to the Sistine Chapel!’ There is much to look out for when traveling alone.
     Being a solitary traveler keeps my eyes open; there is no one with me to share the travel guide responsibility. I am it and I love the responsibility. It keeps me sharp. For the past twenty years I’ve been swinging on my backpack and dragging my suitcase to Italy.
    Traveling solo isn’t better than traveling with a companion; it’s just different. I must admit, however that it is better for me. I love to step out of my busy life and be by myself for a couple of weeks. I’m not getting away from anything; I’m just doing something different, and getting renewed to return to my busy life at home. My husband loves to stay home, and loves that I go.
    Traveling solo doesn’t lend itself to the give and take discussion with a companion, but it does open my eyes to more than just making the right train or bus connection, booking an important reservation, or following the signs to a famous spot. It keeps me looking in vivid ways because I am not distracted by someone else’s noticing. Consequently my own sense of observation is heightened.
     On my trip two trips to Italy this year I became aware of interesting signs as I wandered the streets of Rome, Assisi, Cortona, and Florence. Hilarious, serious and note-worthy, all worthy of a smile, a noticing, and a photograph. I’m not certain they would have caught my eye had I not been alone.  Here they are; some need a translation or explanation, some speak for themselves. 


​1. I came across this while searching for a restaurant in Rome’s Trastevere neighborhood. I usually don’t go for a tourist menu, but I’m not against them. I am, however, against war; I may even be a pacifist. But regardless of any well-thought out opinion on the topic, walking these quaint streets on a spring evening would make anyone hate war and enjoy wine by the glass. 
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2. This sign was across from the restaurant that I settled upon. How welcoming; just come on in and we’ll fix you up. I can state unequivocally that I will never get a tattoo, but if I change my mind, maybe I’ll return to that place in Trastevere and ask the artist to choose just the right tattoo for me and create it on the perfect spot on my body.



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​ 
3. When the books explaining Trump were first coming out, it was April and I was Rome. Here was Sound and Fury prominently displayed in front of the Largo di Torre Argentina bus stop. It caught my attention. 

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4. While wandering somewhere off the beaten tourist trail in Rome I came across a billboard advertising a free concert featuring Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony. What could be better than a Sunday evening concert at 6 PM at the Santa Maria in Aracoeli on the Capitoline Hill just a few block from where I was staying? The church will packed to hear the full orchestra and chorus. 


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5. This understated sign in Assisi needs no comment. 

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6. A different kind of sign that also needs no comment. 


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​7. The carousel in the piazza in front of the church of St. Clare in Assisi invites the young and old. “Antique merry-go-round for children and adults.”


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​I must add this loving, welcoming photo message. 
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​8. Peace and silence upon entering the Basilica of San Francesco in Assisi.

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​9. In the pouring rain I hiked to the Basilica of Santa Margherita, the highest point of the hill town of Cortona, to be delighted by an area for children right in the sanctuary.  The translation made me smile, and I noted that the children were not asked to help put away the toys.  



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10. This sign greeted me at the entrance to the Orti di Pinti, a communal organic garden in Florence. As an elderly, solitary traveler, I went there to get away from the crowds to read, write, and BE.
     How unfortunate that people need a sign to reminds them to be kind to me. I shake my head at the implication that the elderly are ill, that elderly equals infirm. Or, does the sign mean that people have to watch out for the elderly if they are ill? Or, are we being asked to give free passage to the elderly or infirm? No one knows how to categorize us elderly/old folks. No one knows what to do with us. I’d say, watch out, give us a wide birth. 


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11. Yes, see you soon Firenze. I can’t wait. 

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​12. Signs in my neighbor and front yard welcoming me home.

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Anticipating Florence in December~

11/20/2018

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​Two weeks from today I will be settled into my beloved Florence for two weeks as a solitary traveler. I will have arrived on Saturday Dec. 1st; on Sunday I will have visited the Bardini Museum. “Why the Bardini?” you ask. Because, unlike all the famous museums in Florence,  it won’t have a long entrance line on this first Sunday of the month when throughout Italy all museums offer free admission. The Bardini, a secret gem of a museum housing the eclectic collection of antiquarian collector Stefano Bardini ((1854-1922), will not be crowded.
     This will be the third December in a row that I’ve visited Florence, so I know what to expect. The city is festive, active, full of positive energy. Craft, antique, and food fairs fill every church piazza. On December 8th, the Day of the Immaculate Conception, the tree in front of the Duomo is lit.
    As a solitary traveler I never feel lonely during this Christmas season in Florence. I smile as I pass families and friends on the streets. I have left mine at home and will be returning to them. But for now, I cherish being my own companion.  

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Early morning along the Arno

9/18/2018

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Sometimes I am very grateful to be a solitary traveler. This morning I didn’t have to put into words the beauty before me as I walked along the Arno on my way to my first cappuccino of the day.

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The purpose of artists

9/14/2018

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​What is the purpose of life? How do I make meaning? Questions asked by human beings throughout history. For those of us consciously following a spiritual path the answer always leads toward some form of the Golden Rule. Do unto others as they would do unto you.  Regardless of one’s faith tradition, the idea of God appears, because without some mysterious power beyond ourselves, we only work for ourselves, and thus fail to create beauty and good, which have to be part of a sustainable purpose.
     That’s what I’ve been considering as I, a solitary traveler, walk the streets of Florence. I have no way of knowing the part God consciously plays in the lives of the people I pass, but I believe that they are trying to make meaning of their lives, and that there is a God plan for everyone.
    This city attracts the artist, in particular the painter and sculptor, and less obviously, the architect. The painter can carry her supplies around until she finds a spot to practice her art. He can take a painting class. Some sell their work along the tourist trails. 
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 ​      Along the street we are less apt to observe the sculptor working his craft. Her supplies are cumbersome and complicated, so she works behind closed doors until the final product is recognized and displayed in public—perhaps in a temporary exhibit by Koenig in the Boboli Gardens, or permanently along the Arno. 
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​ The process of the architect is more mysterious and less visible until we see the final product arise before out eyes. Can you imagine being a citizen of Florence while Brunelleschi was dome grew before your eyes? 
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    Whether conscious of God or not, I believe these artists are creating for something beyond themselves, for some beauty or truth that transcends their personal, intiment desires. 
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Another Duomo climb

9/10/2018

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​At 8:30 this morning I started the 463 step climb to the top of the Duomo. I wonder how many times I’ve done this? 20? I’d like to say that I’ve climbed every time I’ve come to Florence, but that’s not true. There was a time when I only gazed at my most favorite building in the entire world from the street because I was afraid of heights.
       It was in the late 1980s and I was traveling with my mom. She was about the age I am now but she never considered climbing with me, so off I went by myself, up the interior stone steps, and clinging to the side as I walked the arcade of drum under Vasari’s frescoes. When I got to the top I continued to hug the inside of the lantern as I made one quick navigation around before starting my descent, getting out of there as fast as I dared.  
     During my next visit to Florence, again with my mom, I didn’t  even consider such a climbing venture.
     But then, a few years later, this time traveling alone, I arrived in Florence determined to conquer this acrophobia. I had done a little work on past lives and had the sense that when Brunelleschi was directing the building of the dome, I, a young messenger boy, had fallen off a scaffold and been killed. The part of being killed is up for question because the records show that only one person died while working on the construction, and that was a grown man. I’m not advocating for or against past life theory, but this exercise helped me overcome my fear of heights and sent me climbing to the top to lean against the outside railing and locate the many spots in Florence that I love so much. I’ve been doing it again and again. 

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​​     In the afternoon I walked to the Bardini Gardens overlooking Florence to view from afar the pinnacle of my morning climb.

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Anticipating Florence

8/23/2018

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     ​In less than two weeks (9/4)  I fly to Florence. A 4:55 P.M. flight, with a short change over in Paris, gets me to Florence airport at 10:30. A half hour bus ride from the airport to Santa Maria Novella train station, a short walk to my apartment, and I’ll be off to Piazza della Signoria for pizza. A morning arrival gives me an extra meal, and as they say, ‘You can’t get a bad meal in Italy.’
     Autumn, along with spring, and December are my favorite times to be in Florence. What I’m saying is that all times are favorites, although I notice that today’s summer temperature in the city is 93 degrees. Summer in Florence is too hot and too crowded.
      When I arrive, I will feel a sense of fall: the evenings will be cool and many tourists will have departed. However, summer clothes will still be in order, and the junior year abroad students will be arriving.
      But I know how to work around any obstacles that might get in my way. I’ll walk across the Ponte Vecchio in the early morning when only runners and delivery people are in the streets and before the hot sun beats down. I know of out-of-the-way parks to sit in. I’ll avoid entry lines to the Uffizi by flashing my Amici degli Uffizi card. I know off the beaten track restaurants and how to avoid crowds by eating on the early side.
     I love anticipating a trip, but it isn’t even half as good as the real thing. 

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Signs for a solitary traveler~

7/9/2018

0 Comments

 
Picture
​    ‘Don’t miss that bus stop! Don’t forget to punch your train ticket! Don’t be late for your reservation to climb the Duomo! Follow the signs to the Sistine Chapel!’ There is much to look out for when traveling alone.
     Being a solitary traveler keeps my eyes open; there is no one with me to share the travel guide responsibility. I am it and I love the responsibility. It keeps me sharp. For the past twenty years I’ve been swinging on my backpack and dragging my suitcase to Italy.
    Traveling solo isn’t better than traveling with a companion; it’s just different. I must admit, however that it is better for me. I love to step out of my busy life and be by myself for a couple of weeks. I’m not getting away from anything; I’m just doing something different, and getting renewed to return to my busy life at home. My husband loves to stay home, and loves that I go.
    Traveling solo doesn’t lend itself to the give and take discussion with a companion, but it does open my eyes to more than just making the right train or bus connection, booking an important reservation, or following the signs to a famous spot. It keeps me looking in vivid ways because I am not distracted by someone else’s noticing. Consequently my own sense of observation is heightened.
     On my trip two trips to Italy this year I became aware of interesting signs as I wandered the streets of Rome, Assisi, Cortona, and Florence. Hilarious, serious and note-worthy, all worthy of a smile, a noticing, and a photograph. I’m not certain they would have caught my eye had I not been alone.  Here they are; some need a translation or explanation, some speak for themselves. 

​1. I came across this while searching for a restaurant in Rome’s Trastevere neighborhood. I usually don’t go for a tourist menu, but I’m not against them. I am, however, against war; I may even be a pacifist. But regardless of any well-thought out opinion on the topic, walking these quaint streets on a spring evening would make anyone hate war and enjoy wine by the glass. 
Picture

​2. This sign was across from the restaurant that I settled upon. How welcoming; just come on in and we’ll fix you up. I can state unequivocally that I will never get a tattoo, but if I change my mind, maybe I’ll return to this place in Trastevere and ask the artist to pick just the right tattoo for me and create it on the perfect spot for me.
Picture

​3. When the books explaining Trump were first coming out, it was April and I was Rome. Here was Sound and Fury prominently displayed in front of the Largo di Torre Argentina bus stop. It caught my attention. 
Picture
​
​4. While wandering somewhere off the beaten tourist trail in Rome I came across this billboard advertising a free concert featuring Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony. What could be better than a Sunday evening concert at 6 PM at the Santa Maria in Aracoeli on the Capitoline Hill just a few block from where I was staying? The church will packed to hear the full orchestra and chorus. 
Picture

​​5. This understated sign in Assisi needs no comment. 
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​
​6. A different kind of sign that also needs no comment. 
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​
​7. The carousel in the piazza in front of the church of St. Clare in Assisi invites the young and old. “Antique merry-go-round for children and adults.”
I must add this loving, welcoming photo message. 
​8. Peace and silence upon entering the Basilica of San Francesco in Assisi.
​
​9. In the pouring rain I hiked to the Basilica of Santa Margherita, the highest point of the hill town of Cortona, to be delighted by an area for children right in the sanctuary.  The translation made me smile, and I noted that the children were not asked to help put away the toys.  
Picture
Picture

10. ​This sign greeted me at the entrance to the Orti di Pinti, a communal organic garden in Florence. As an elderly, solitary traveler, I went there to get away from the crowds to read, write, and BE.
     How unfortunate that people need a sign to reminds them to be kind to me. I shake my head at the implication that the elderly are ill, that elderly equals infirm. Or, does the sign mean that people have to watch out for the elderly if they are ill? Or, are we being asked to give free passage to the elderly or infirm? No one knows how to categorize us elderly/old folks. No one knows what to do with us. I’d say, watch out, give us a wide birth. 
Picture
​
​11. Yes, see you soon Firenze. I can’t wait. 
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​
​12. Signs in my neighbor and front yard welcoming me home.
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    Author

         I love to travel alone, and so I do. My husband of 54 years loves to stay home and garden, and so he does. But he knows I love to go off by myself for extended periods of time. For five years (2009-2014) I rented a cottage by the sea, an hour and a half from our home, and spent the weekdays there alone. For the past twenty years I’ve been traveling by myself, primarily to Scotland (Iona, the Highlands, and Edinburgh) and Italy. When I say Italy I really mean Florence, with occasional short stops and excursions around Tuscany and Umbria and to Rome.
        A Cottage by the Sea is about my longing for silence, solitude and simplicity. When I travel I post my thoughts and experiences “On My Mind”. This section, “A Solitary Traveler” is where I post articles about my travels.
         You may be thinking, “If she’s been married 54 years, how old is she?” I’m 77. Maybe my next article will be about how to keep traveling alone as one gets older.

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