I always feel free in Florence. As a solitary traveler, I don’t’ have to make plans with anyone. I just set out and start walking, trusting that there’s a café on every street corner and a restaurant in between--and usually a merry-go-round.
For the past six years I’ve spent two weeks in this favorite city of mine, in spring and fall, and for the past two years, in December as well. I’ve visited all the major museums and churches multiple times and can’t begin to count how often I’ve climbed to the top of the Duomo to look down upon all of my go-to places. I know the city well.
This spring, however, I changed things up and spent four nights in Rome, three in Assisi, one in Cortona, and six in Florence, staying in monasteries instead of hotels or apartments.
With only six days in Florence, I decided to be free in Florence in another way, by taking advantage of what is actually free in Florence. The only admission fee I paid was four euros to see the frescoes of Fra Angelico in the monks’ cells at the Convent of San Marco.
Other than that, I wandered about discovering free history and art surprises in churches, cloisters, civic buildings, art galleries, gardens and parks. Just by looking up at the facades of buildings I was given a free course on renaissance architecture. Sometimes I planned where to go, sometimes I just stumbled upon (yes, uneven sidewalks) something wonderful and surprising. And all for free just by wandering about.
Churches and Convents
Visiting churches is a good way to start because Florence is filled with them, each with a treasure trove of paintings and sculpture displayed in their original architectural homes. Although Santa Maria Novella, Santa Croce and San Lorenzo charge a small entrance fee (definitely worthwhile),most churches are free.
A good guidebook will alert you to the important paintings, frescoes, and sculpture of the most celebrated artists of medieval and renaissance Florence, all displayed where the folks of the day would have seen them. Santa Trinita, Santo Spirito, and Ognisanti offer a rich array of history and art free of charge.
Entry to Santa Marie dei Fiori, referred to as the Duomo, is free but be prepared to stand in line to get in. However, there is an outside entrance on the south side at the end of the nave for those attending mass or wanting to pray in the early morning and evening. With intention, I say, “La Messa,” and in I go to stare up at Vasari’s frescoes that cover the inside of the dome, to breathe in the immensity of it all, and to sit in silence and pray.
1. Orsanmichele
The ground floor of the Church of Orsanmichele is open daily free to the public. On Mondays, however, you can also climb to the very high ceilinged first and second floors.
The ground floor of the Church of Orsanmichele is open daily free to the public. On Mondays, however, you can also climb to the very high ceilinged first and second floors.
Originally built as a grain market, the first floor now houses the original statues (replaced by replicas) that embellish the exterior of the building. It is well worth the climb up the turret steps to examine close-up these works of Nanni di Banco, Ghiberti, Donatello, Brunelleschi, Andrea del Verocchio, Giambologna and others.
A circular staircase leads to the second floor where you can take in amazing views of the city, from the Duomo and Giotto’s Campanile, to the Piazza Republica, to the Boboli Gardens across the Arno, to the Piazza della Signoria, to Santa Croce and La Badia, and back to the Duomo. Definitely a rewarding free morning in Florence!
2. Cloisters
We twenty-first century tourists have become conditioned to think of churches as standalones, but when we peak around a corner or walk through a door left ajar, we see the expanse of the church complex of Late Medieval (trecento) and Renaissance (quattrocento) Florence.
You never know when a cloister, chapel, refectory, or convent room will be open for a day or two. I keep looking, and if a door is not shut, in I go. This spring the magnificent cloister adjacent to Santissima Annunciata was open to the pubic to display a contemporary art exhibit.
Cloisters are integral to the set of buildings that comprised the convent or monastery configuration surrounding a church. Today many cloister entries are separate and free. To the left of the Church of San Lorenzo is the entrance to its beautiful cloister with a view of the nearby Duomo and Campanile.
The Church of Santissima Annunciata has a covered courtyard prior to the church entrance where you can gaze at an early fresco allegedly painted by Leonardo da Vinci during his early years in Florence.
To reach the ticket office to the Brancacci Chapel to view the Masaccio frescos at Santa Maria del Carmine, you must circumnavigate one of the most lovely cloisters in all of Florence. Off the cloister is the convent’s refectory (dining room), displaying a recently restored Last Supper .
3. Refectories
Speaking of Last Supper paintings, you can spend a week just viewing different artistic renditions in refectories, many with free entry. The Last Supper (Il Cenacolo) by Castagno (1447) hangs in its original spot in the refectory of one of the largest nunneries of fifteenth century Florence, the Convent of St. Apollonia on Via VXII Aprile. I spent an hour gazing at the expansive fresco, examining scinope (fresco sketches) on the side walls, and imagining I was a nun praying during my daily meal.
Not to be missed is the Last Supper by Domenico Girlandaio in the Church of Ognissanti on the Arno. Winding through the courtyards and rooms to arrive at the refectory gives a sense of the magnitude and complexity of these convents, and reminds us that the church proper was only one part of a much bigger whole. (The entrance is separate from the church and has limited opening hours.)
4. A Hidden Church Treasure
St. Croce was undoubtedly the largest monastic complex of quattrocento Florence, and is well worth the admission charge. The entrance to its Scuola del Cuoio (leather school/shop), however, is free. Walk along Via S. Giuseppe to the left of the church to a rather modest entrance at 5R; continue along the driveway to the rear and follow the signs. On the way you get a sense of the enormity of the church complex.
Climb the entrance steps, watch artists demonstrating their craft as they make the exquisite leather products sold in the shop, and learn the history of the school and its mission to educate orphans after World War II.
St. Croce was undoubtedly the largest monastic complex of quattrocento Florence, and is well worth the admission charge. The entrance to its Scuola del Cuoio (leather school/shop), however, is free. Walk along Via S. Giuseppe to the left of the church to a rather modest entrance at 5R; continue along the driveway to the rear and follow the signs. On the way you get a sense of the enormity of the church complex.
Climb the entrance steps, watch artists demonstrating their craft as they make the exquisite leather products sold in the shop, and learn the history of the school and its mission to educate orphans after World War II.
Public Buildings
5. Palazzo Vecchio
If there is a perfect place to start your Free in Florence tour, it might be the museum on the ground floor of Palazzo Vecchio, the civic building of the Trecento and Quattrocento. Off the courtyard near the ticket office is this little museum that holds artwork depicting Florence through the centuries, from early paintings of the Arno to photographs of the 1966 flood.
Many of these works were part of the Museo di Firenze Come Era (Florence as it was), now the Biblioteca (library) delle Oblate, Via dell’Oriuolo, 26, a free architectural delight where you can go to write, read, and eat while taking in a stunning view of Brunelleschi’s Dome.
6. Medici-Riccardi Palace
Perhaps palace is a misnomer for the homes of the wealthy families in Renaissance Florence. After all, the families were not of royalty but their homes were palatial. Many of these magnificent stone buildings are now homes to museums, schools, banks, and even the local police. In many cases there is free access to the ground floor courtyard.
The Medici-Riccardi Palace accommodates offices of the local police as well as a gallery of contemporary art. To appreciate this home built by Cosimo Medici in 1444, and where his grandson Lorenzo Il Magnifico entertained humanists, scholars, poets, and artists, you only need to be walking by when the entrance to the courtyard is open. Go on in, gaze up, and wander around.
Perhaps palace is a misnomer for the homes of the wealthy families in Renaissance Florence. After all, the families were not of royalty but their homes were palatial. Many of these magnificent stone buildings are now homes to museums, schools, banks, and even the local police. In many cases there is free access to the ground floor courtyard.
The Medici-Riccardi Palace accommodates offices of the local police as well as a gallery of contemporary art. To appreciate this home built by Cosimo Medici in 1444, and where his grandson Lorenzo Il Magnifico entertained humanists, scholars, poets, and artists, you only need to be walking by when the entrance to the courtyard is open. Go on in, gaze up, and wander around.
Walk through the courtyard to the garden where parties were held, artists (including the young Michelangelo) worked, philosophers argued, and poets wove words. Visit the current contemporary exhibit on the ground floor rooms of the palazzo. This spring I happened upon a display of books as art. I’m always intrigued and delighted to see contemporary art featured along with the old. As the saying goes, “All art was once contemporary.”
Private Homes, Parks, and Gardens
7. Casa Guidi and the English Cemetery
Casa Guidi at Piazza San Felice, 8, was the home of Elizabeth and Robert Browning from 1847-1861. Today, under the auspices the Browning Society and The Friends of Casa Guidi, this eight room apartment is open free of charge to the public Monday, Wednesday, and Friday afternoons. Ring the bell, wait for the click of the door opening, and walk up one flight of stairs. You will be welcomed into the homey apartment where Elizabeth spent most of her days while living in Florence. http://www.browningsociety.org/casa_guidi.html
Casa Guidi at Piazza San Felice, 8, was the home of Elizabeth and Robert Browning from 1847-1861. Today, under the auspices the Browning Society and The Friends of Casa Guidi, this eight room apartment is open free of charge to the public Monday, Wednesday, and Friday afternoons. Ring the bell, wait for the click of the door opening, and walk up one flight of stairs. You will be welcomed into the homey apartment where Elizabeth spent most of her days while living in Florence. http://www.browningsociety.org/casa_guidi.html
Walk outside the city center to the English Cemetery at Piazzale Donatello where Elizabeth is buried. On your way stop for a picnic at the Orti Dipinti Garden, Via Borgo Pinti, 76.
8. Park of the Art School of Porta Romana
There are public gardens and parks throughout Florence ready to welcome you. Buy a sandwich a bottle of water and enjoy.
I love to walk along Via Romana to the vast park of the Art School of Porta Romana. I eat my lunch and write, and watch people exercising their dogs, playing Frisbee and soccer, sitting and chatting, and reading and napping. The property abuts the Boboli Gardens, where alas, and entry fee is charged.
9. Piazzale Michelangelo and Environs
Everyone visiting Florence takes to time view the city from Piazza Michelangelo.
The walk to enjoy this magnificent view takes you by the Rose Garden, which is another good place to eat your sandwich, write, read or just sit and enjoy the view and surroundings. It boasts a Japanese Garden, as well as 350 species of roses.
Further on is the church of San Miniato al Monte, one of my most absolute favorite spots to visit in Florence. Entrance to this Romanesque church is free; Gregorian Chant concerts are performed without charge from time to time.
The church is surrounded by a massive cemetery. Take time to wander about and read the love expressed on the statues and tomb stones from the 19th century to the present.
Quick Tips
In Rome. 10. Keep an eye out for posters displayed at churches and public building announcing concerts, art shows, garden tours, and other offerings around the city. Many are free. Also, see what the folks at the Florence Tourist Bureau and the Firenze Card office have to recommend.
Explore on line.
Explore on line.
11. Enjoy street artists--musicians, painters, jugglers-- at Piazza della Republica, Piazza della Signoria, and the Ponte Vecchio.
12. Walk along the Arno-- my final tip for being free in Florence.
AND, a friend just reminded me: The first Sunday of the month all museums in Italy are free!
AND, a friend just reminded me: The first Sunday of the month all museums in Italy are free!
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